Saturday, November 13, 2010

Exfoliation

According to Webster’s Ninth New Collegiate Dictionary,
Exfoliate: vb 1: To cast off scales, laminae, or splinters 2: To remove the surface of in scales or laminae 3: to spread or extend by or as if by opening out leaves
There are two basic types of exfoliation: chemical and mechanical. Mechanical es a technique that physically removed dead corneum cells. Examples include granular scrubs, microdermabrasion, gommages, roll off type masks, and scrubs made from ground grains. As the scrub product is pressed against and passed over the skin, cells almost ready to be shed are literally bumped off the skin. Home scrubs are recommended 2-3 times weekly. More than that can damage the skin by creating micro-scratches on the skin.
Chemical exfoliation uses chemicals (both naturally and laboratory designed) to loosen dead cells from the skin’s surface. Rather than removing the dead cells (as with mechanical exfoliation) chemical exfoliation actually dissolves the keratin in the keratinocyte, or loosen the bonds holding the cells together. Examples of chemoexfoliation include enzyme treatments, AHA’s, BHA’s, and stronger salon exfoliation treatments. Different products and chemicals are used for different skin types.
Another type of exfoliation is enzymes. This type of exfoliation has existed in esthetics for over 30 years. In Milady’s Skin Care & Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary enzyme is defined as: biologically, a highly specific and complex protein catalyst that can accelerate or produce a chemical reaction.
The most common enzymes used in cosmetics are derived from vegetables or fruits such as papain (papaya) and bromelain (pineapple). They tend to be used to enhance the activity of the naturally occurring enzymes responsible for surface exfoliation of dead skin cells. Topical enzymes have a proteolytic action on the skin.
However there are contraindications for exfoliation treatments. Make sure your esthetician is aware of your skin type and if it’s safe to perform these treatments on your skin. If you have taken accutane in the past 6-12 months you should not be receiving a chemical exfoliation, and a mechanical exfoliation must be extremely gentle. Also, if your skin has been compromised in any way i.e. sunburn, open lesions, inflammatory acne, be extremely cautious in the treatments you decide to receive. Exfoliation treatments are here to help your skin but only if your skin is ready to be helped. All skin wants to be helped and pampered, but only when it’s in prime condition. We don’t want to make something bad, worse.
Home care scrubs are a must!!! Get rid of those dead skin cells. But if you are interested in chemical exfoliations please go see a professional. Let someone else help your skin before you hurt it!

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